Get Your Shine On!
Ever done a double take when you’ve seen an especially handsome horse? A dazzling coat and a glossy, flowing mane and tail will always turn heads, whether you’re in the show ring or heading down the trail. You may never plan on showing your horse, but you still want him to look his best. Your obvious starting point is providing complete, balanced nutrition designed for your horse’s age and use. Then comes the fun part: a regular grooming routine that keeps his skin, coat, mane and tail clean and conditioned.
Beyond appearances, grooming is a time of bonding and relaxation for you and your horse. It’s also a great way to spend quality time with a horse you can’t ride for whatever reason, such as a young horse, an old retiree or a horse recovering from injury.
To find out what kind of grooming routine the pros rely on, we chatted with Tina Anderson of Millsap, Texas, a lifelong horse owner and an American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) judge for 15 years. Anderson is also Director of New Product Strategy and Development at Farnam Companies, Inc.
Despite all of the myriad grooming products on the market, Anderson insists there’s really no substitute for good old-fashioned “elbow grease.” You don’t need a huge arsenal of fancy tools to do a great job, either. Of course you can add to this list, but the basic grooming essentials are:
- Rubber currycomb
- Stiff-bristled brush
- Soft-bristled brush
- Grooming rag/towel
- Detangler/shine product
- Hoof pick
- Mane comb
H2O Time
Unless the weather is too cold, you’ll want to rinse your horse off after every workout to remove dirt and sweat. It might smell wonderful, but shampoo isn’t needed every day. Once a week is plenty. And when you do shampoo, be sure to choose one that’s formulated for horses and follow label directions.
“People often use ‘human’ shampoos, but these aren’t the best for equine hair and skin,” says Anderson. “For stubborn stains, look for a shampoo you can let soak in. A shampoo applicator you attach directly to the hose is great when you’re short on time because it really blasts out dirt.”
Don’t forget the mane and tail, but be sure to rinse out the shampoo completely or it can leave a gray, gummy residue. Anderson has found that the best method is to use a bucket when washing tails. Carefully submerge the tail in a bucket of soapy water and scrub well with your fingers, making sure to go all the way up to the top of the tail and under the tailbone. Rinse thoroughly, and to make sure you’ve removed all the soap, refill the bucket with clean water and submerge the tail completely.
A frequent complaint about human hair products is that buildup can occur with continued usage. Anderson says this isn’t typically a problem with horse hair products … providing you’re using the right products correctly.
“If you use quality products formulated for horses and rinse properly, you shouldn’t get buildup. When you do see it, it’s usually in the tail because shampoo is hard to rinse out. That’s why I recommend soaking the tail in a bucket of fresh water.”
When the weather’s too cold for bathing, use a dry shampoo made for horses. You spray it on, massage it in and wipe it off with a damp towel. This is especially effective on manure and urine stains.
Common Mistakes
Horse owners — even those with years of experience — often make mistakes when it comes to grooming. Anderson shares some of the most common ones:
Not grooming regularly. If you’re not in a regular grooming routine, you run the risk of missing small problems that can become big issues. Plus, your horse simply won’t look his best.
Using the wrong grooming tools. Use brushes and tools made specifically for horses. That means no metal currycomb or scraper; they can be hard on skin and damaging to hair.
Combing tails. A comb and a tail should never meet! Combs pull out hair, even when used carefully. Use your fingers and a detangler product. Start from the bottom and work up to remove any knots. Only when a tail is tangle free should you use a brush on it, but skip the comb.
Shampooing too often. Shampoo can dry out the skin and hair coat when used too frequently. Once a week is plenty and many horses don’t even need it that often.
Applying shampoo directly to the horse. Read the label! Many equine shampoos are concentrated and require only a small amount in a bucket of water. Pouring it on the horse wastes money and the product won’t work as intended.
By Cynthia McFarland
© 2016 Farnam Companies, Inc. Farnam and Farnam with design are trademarks of Farnam Companies, Inc.
Every horse owner should know what to do if an injury occurs. In an emergency, such knowledge could even save your horse’s life. No matter how the injury occurred, whenever a wound is bleeding, your first concern is to limit blood loss. You may have already called the veterinarian, but until help arrives, you need to take action.
Because of the horse’s sheer size and power, handling him when he’s under stress or in pain can be daunting. Focus on remaining calm and thinking clearly so you can soothe the horse and keep him as quiet as possible. The more excited he is, the harder his heart will pump and the faster the wound will bleed.
If an artery is cut, blood will spurt with each heartbeat. If a large vein is cut, the wound will ooze continuously.
The rate at which blood is lost can actually be more important than how much blood is lost. A horse can literally lose gallons of blood at a slow trickle and survive, while faster bleeding can be life threatening, even if just one-tenth of his total blood volume is lost.
To staunch bleeding, use non-stick gauze squares if available, but in an emergency, you may have to use a T-shirt or other absorbent material. Maxi pads are great to keep in your first aid kit just for this purpose. They’re highly absorbent and easy to use.
Using firm, direct pressure, hold the absorbent material—gauze squares, clean towel, maxi pad or bandage—over the wound for a minimum of five minutes. Even if the gauze squares/towel/maxi pad/bandage becomes soaked with blood, resist the temptation to lift it from the wound. Add another layer on top and keep pressing on the wound. Once you staunch the blood flow, apply a pressure bandage (if the location of the wound allows), until the veterinarian arrives.
If you think your horse may have lost a significant amount of blood, it’s crucial to get a veterinarian on the scene as quickly as possible. Monitor the horse for signs of shock, which include:
What Is West Nile Encephalitis?
West Nile encephalitis describes an inflammation of the central nervous system, which is caused by infection with West Nile Virus. Prior to 1999 West Nile Virus was found only in Africa, Eastern Europe, and West Asia. In August of 1999 it was identified in the United States.
How Do People Or Animals Become Infected With West Nile Virus?
People and animals can become infected from the bite of certain kinds of mosquitoes that are infected with the virus. Mosquitoes may pick up the virus when they bite, or take a blood meal, from wild birds that are infected with West Nile Virus. Those mosquitoes may then transmit the virus to people and other animals when biting to take a blood meal. Infection occurs primarily in the late summer or early fall in the northeast and Mid Atlantic regions.
Does Infection Always Lead To Illness?
Infection with West Nile Virus does not always lead to signs of illness in people or animals. Horses appear to be a species that is susceptible to infection with the virus. In horses that do become clinically ill, the virus infects the central nervous system and may cause symptoms of encephalitis. Clinical signs of encephalitis in horses may include a general loss of appetite and depression, in addition to any combination of the following signs: